Prabal Gurung's fall collection started off somber, dark, and restrained, with 14 straight all-black looks. But the models' eye makeup — a shimmery peacock blue — hinted at the delight of color to come. The show unfolded precisely, an ordered progression from darkness to light. You could see Gurung introducing his ideas, one by one, and they made for some beautiful clothes. Tailored, hip-slung, skinny flared pants were sexy. So were the dramatic gowns, particularly the black gown in embellished tulle worn by Jourdan Dunn.

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